The SW900 LCD could be one of the most complex controllers, but it could help you get the most out of your electric bike.
THE S900 LCD IS A DIFFERENT CONTROLLER COMPARED TO THE SW MODEL.
Many e-bike manufacturers, such as Specialized, have focused on building the best components (motors, batteries, lightweight frames, etc.) to give users a great riding experience. However, I believe the real benefits of an e-bicycle can be uncovered if the controller can do the same.
When researching the ideal controller for my e-bike, I wondered if I should get a simple controller or a more sophisticated (but complex) LCD that gives me more features.
To answer this, I considered other factors, including my local electric bike laws and the classification of my new e-bike.
Table of Contents
SW900 Main Components
The SW900 screen measures 7.3 cm x 4.1 cm, which is big enough to read the information without problems. I like this because it is easy to see the readouts, but I found that the cockpit, or handlebar, would need to have enough space to fit this big controller.
The controller has three (3) buttons: multi-function (M) and up and down arrow buttons.
– The “M” button will provide navigation to the functions, which can be adjusted with the arrows.
You must hold the arrows for approximately 3 seconds to access the whole range of functions.
– Overall, there will be six (6) readings you will see on the screen all the time:
SW900 LCD Functions
Although the display showed me only six (6) readings (standard), there are fourteen (14) usable functions to access and adjust.
- P01 – Display brightness: choose from 1 to 3, with 3 being the brightest option (for sunny days).
- Po2 – Km or miles per hour: depending on your country, you can select to display the speed in km (“0” ) or mph (“1”). For this to work correctly, you need to set the size of your wheels.
- Po3 – Voltage of battery and motor: this specifies the volts of the battery (24v, 36v and 48v) and motor. I found the SW900 is set to 36v.
- Po4 – Display sleep mode: zero to 60 mins. Zero means the controller will stay on all the time, and 60 minutes means it will shut down after 1 hour of no operation (this will not happen if you are riding).
- Po5—Pedal Assist levels (PAS): This controller offers three (3) PAS and five (5) PAS levels. To select the options, “zero” means one to three levels of PAS and “one” means one to five levels of PAS.
This is great because some e-bike motors, like the ebikemotion X35 plus which is fitted in the Orbea Vibe H30, can only offer 3 levels of assistance, but others (most of them) offer 5 PAS.
- P06 – Wheel size selection: this is where you establish the size of your wheels in inches. It is important as the speed sensor accuracy depends on this factor.
- *P07—Speed measuring magnet: This element will be factory calibrated, so it is better not to mess with it. Based on the assistance mode selected and the motor’s speed limit regulation, it will tell the controller if the motor is delivering the proper assistance and, therefore, if the battery is providing the correct voltage. This is very important to inform the controller to deactivate the engine if you reach the set speed limit.
- P08—Speed limit: This is a crucial setting since it will help to set the right speed that will comply with the local regulations.
Learn More: Electric Bike Laws – Avoid unnecessary fines
- P09 – Zero and Non-Zero Start: This relates to the throttle device activation. A non-zero start means the throttle will have a delay reaction of 1 sec. This relates to safety rather than messing up with patience.
- P10—Driving mode: 0, 1, and 2, where “0” means to ride with PAS only, “1” means to ride with throttle only, and “2” means to ride with both PAS and throttle.
- P11 – PAS sensitivity: ranging from 1 to 24, where 24 will give more riding range due to less battery and motor usage.
- *P12 – PAS start strength: “0” for low power and 5 for the fullest strength, meaning immediate start.
- *P13 – PAS magnet type: you will have a 5, 8, and 12 class. This comes factory-calibrated and is directly related to the motor type your e-bike has. Ask a local e-bike shop for assistance.
- *P14 – Current limit of the controller: set by the manufacturer; it has a range between 1 to 20Ah. Don’t change it if you don’t need it.
Note: the * symbol means factory calibrated.
From the list above, I suggest setting the most critical points before the first rid at 2, 5, 6, 8, and 10.
SW900 LCD System Error Codes
When something is not working well with your electric bike, the controller can inform you about the issue or system errors. This is what you need to know:
0 | All correct |
---|---|
1 | Save. |
2 | Brakes. |
3 | PAS issues (at specific mode). |
4 | 6 km/h cruising. |
5 | Real-time cruising. |
6 | Battery voltage is low. |
7 | Motor issues. |
8 | Throttle issues. |
9 | Controller issues. |
10 | Communication receiving issues. |
11 | Communication transmitting issues. |
12 | BMS communication issues. |
13 | Headlight issues. |
If you can fix something, try it; otherwise, take the e-bike to your closest bike shop.
SW900 Throttle e-bike Controller Wrap-Up
As you have seen, there are many things to check with this controller, which could be overwhelming.
If you have bought an electric bicycle that is already fitted, I suggest going through every function to confirm it is set correctly.
On the other hand, if you bought a kit to convert your standard bike, pay close attention to every single item and make it specific to the kit specifications.
My preference is for a more minimalist controller, such as the Giant Ride Dash used in the Explorer E+ 1; however, I believe the SW900 LCD is one of the most functional controllers for e-bikes I have seen.
5 Comments
Hello does any one know how to change the numbers? on step-10 on the s900? I want to change to only throttle.
I just bought a Voilamart kit including a SW900A controller and fitted it to my bike. It goes but changing the parameters in the Configuration seems to make no difference. e.g. I changed the P08 to 25 km/h and it would still go 33 km/h! I changed the P10 to 0 (PAS only) and it still runs from the twist throttle.
I have not connected the PAS – I don’t think that should make a difference? Anyone experienced this? Do I have to cycle the power or something to get them to have effect? I tried restarting using the M button but that doesn’t cycle the power.
Just a couple of small corrections to your excellent description: The current limit P14 is in Amps, not AHr. And P13 depends on the PAS sensor – count the number of magnets (not the motor)
My S900 display is set at 100 on P10 setting. Please could i ask why this is. I thought 0 POWER DRIVE, 1 ELECTRIC DRIVE and 2 POWER & ELECTRIC COMBINED or is it classed as 100 for ELECTRIC DRIVE etc?.
Thank you.
Andy.
(ECOTRIC 26″ FAT TYRE EBIKE 500W)
Hi Andy,
what I can see is that you are using the S900, which is a different LCD controller variation (I haven’t seen it so far). The one explained on EBA is the SW900.
Sorry for not being more help.
Regards,
Paul
I found your info pretty informative and I agree that the sw900 can be confusing for an amateur /beginner.
But the controller does give you the choice to get the best from the ebike kit you select and I would recommend it to anyone who would obviously have to the ability to build an ebike would also be able to understand the functions on this controller and like myself, be able to match it to said battery and motor kit selected.